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How To Buy Properties & The Procedure in Ghana? There aren’t any regulations on foreigners shopping for belongings in Ghana. However, There are exceptional sorts of land, a number of which can’t be privately owned.
THERE ARE 6 TYPES OF LAND IN GHANA:
1- Government Land,
To collect Government Land or Vested Land, an utility should be filed with the Executive Secretary of Lands Commission or the Regional Lands Officer, relying at the region of the land.
Customary Land belongs to exceptional Stools in Ghana, who’ve the authority to provide the precise standard land for which they’re responsible.
The 1992 Constitution states that there should be no loose keep hobby granted in land. Customary Land granted to non-public people or households earlier than the 1992 Constitution”is now taken into consideration” non-public land. In this case, the consumer has to move without delay to the proprietor of the land.
The offerings of a actual property agent and a legal professional are needed in obtaining Properties
A name seek could be very crucial to decide the possession and sort of land the consumer is fascinated in. Once all agreements had been settled, a Deed of Conveyance, or the appropriate tool of transfer (indenture), is ready with the aid of using the legal professional.(lawyer) Upon signing, the name is transferred to the consumer, who, on the equal time, will pay for the belongings. The name is registered on the Lands Commission Secretariat. Property registration takes round forty eight days to accomplish, with around 5 procedures.
LEGAL FEES Legal expenses are regulated with the aid of using the Ghana Bar Association. The following quantities are prescribed criminal expenses for conveyance
STAMP DUTY Stamp responsibility is levied at the fee of the belongings at revolutionary rates
PROPERTY VALUE The spherical ride transaction fees encompass all fees of purchasing after which re-promoting a belongings –
Building a greenhouse is easier than you might think.
You can choose the unique styles and sizes you want to create. A greenhouse can reassuringly reappear every time its greens, vegetables, flowers, or orchids are moved. It also provides the desired light and humidity. for this vegetation. You will also relax and feel that you have tried your best to build such a wonderful place every time you visit this place.
also saves more money when you make a call to build a small greenhouse. There are materials and substances that you will use that should simply suffice in line with your organized personal finances. If there is also enough space to accommodate an even larger greenhouse, you must be aware that you will need to expand the cover and larger greens.
If you really prefer to build a greenhouse in which you can expand and multiply more vegetation, you must not forget the various factors that are very important in the type of greenhouse you wish to build. Here are many tips and components that you must not forget when building your own greenhouse.
Also, don’t forget to use reclaimed fabrics in case you need to build an even bigger greenhouse. You will also use these substances to conceive and plan a very inexpensive greenhouse.
This could even help you reduce the value of the alternative materials and substances you need.
You should also decide about the climate of the place where you are staying. An insulated greenhouse should be suitable for climates without blood. This can help you give your greenery the temperature and warmth you want. A greenhouse with color control is recommended for hot locations.
First, you must ensure that your greenhouse is equipped with adequate air clearance, airflow, soil control, winter heaters, and humidity control devices. You need to create an environment that is often suitable for the types of plants that will be growing in your greenhouse.
The greenhouse area should be designed so that there is sufficient natural light. If you choose a solar greenhouse for vegetables and heavy fruit vegetation, it is much better if the greenhouse is east-west in an inland district, which you save by this investigation, it is much larger outdoors in the light of day
Also do not forget about the overlap of the greenhouse. The most recommended sunglasses are glass and fiberglass coatings that do not affect your economy. However, remember that they offer greater resistance compared to plastic covers because now they do not move quickly in the pot.A glass or fiberglass enclosed greenhouse lets in more moisture and heat.
You have the option to choose which base style you want to use. The foundations are also concrete for a safer greenhouse. Others choose the much cheaper Light Foundation, in which they use substances prepared by the jury. along with railroad ties that can effortlessly connect to the ground. It all depends on how much you are willing to pay for the type of greenhouse.
First, don’t forget to build a greenhouse on the ground to unlock its full potential. You can also place benches or items on the floor for your comfort whenever you want to relax inside. The Greenhouse. First of all, you need to integrate various add-ons for the site like automatic irrigation systems, heating systems, airflow machines and other automated systems that are effective in protecting the vegetation.
You must use the “right bugs” so your pursuer can handle the chemical.You prevent and manipulate the spread of terrible bugs in a greenhouse. If you ever find insects on a plant, you should isolate the plant and, if possible, move the plant outside of the greenhouse to keep the insects out of the greenhouse. varied vegetation.
You must assign a place where you will see fertilizers, potting soil, and other tools that are vital to the greenhouse. You need to place a tool rack closer to the pot position to make changing the potting soil from the green easier. You must launch the location cubes and device holders to accommodate the alternate system while they are no longer in use. expand and develop all kinds of vegetation with a versatile greenhouse. You have to grow the great vegetation to fill the green
When you harvest a pod, another grows in its place. It’s related to the hibiscus plant and produces similarly beautiful flowers. Okra grows best in hot climates, but even if you live in a Northern region, you can grow okra by starting it from seed indoors and transplanting when the weather warms up.
Part 1 of 3:
Determine how to start your seeds. If you live in a place with hot summers and mild winters, it’s easiest to plant okra in your garden patch, rather than starting it indoors. You’ll want to plant the okra seeds in early spring, after the last frost of the year, when the temperature doesn’t dip below 55 degrees at night. If that doesn’t happen until late spring or early summer where you live, then it’s better to start your seeds indoors 2-3 weeks before the last frost. When the seedlings are sturdy and the weather warms up, you’ll transplant them to your garden patch.
To start seeds inside, plant the seeds in peat seed starter and keep them well-watered. Put them in a warm, sunny room or use grow lamps to keep them warm during the germination period. Keep the temperature between 65 and 70 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the weather warms up and you’re ready to transplant the seedlings, follow the same steps you’d use to grow okra from seed outdoors.
Choose the sunniest spot in your garden. Okra grows best in full, hot sun. If you try to grow it in a shady spot, it won’t produce much fruit, if it lives at all.
Okra should be planted in a location that gets at least 6 hours of full sun every day. Don’t worry that it’ll get too hot – okra really gets going at summer’s peak, when the sun beats down on the garden at its hottest.
Correct the soil’s pH. Okra grows best in a soil with a pH level between 6.5 and 7.0. test your soil’s pH level to determine whether it is in the proper pH range. You can work in limestone or bone meal to increase the soil’s pH. If you’d prefer not to change the pH level of your soil using any drastic measures, you can simply work in plenty of compost, which will drive the pH towards neutral, or 7.
Enrich the soil with nutrients. Okra grows well in very rich soil that’s packed with nutrients. You can enrich your soil using compost, bagged organic fertilizer, or 4-6-6 slow release fertilizer. Either way, till the soil to a depth of 12 inches (30.5 cm) and work in 4 inches (10.2 cm) of compost or fertilizer using a garden rake so that it’s evenly distributed.
Neglecting to add nutrients to the soil may result in okra plants that don’t produce a lot of fruit.
Sow the seeds or plant the seedlings. When the weather is warm, it’s time to plant the okra in your garden. Sow your seeds 4 inches (10.2 cm) apart at a depth of 1⁄2 inch (1.3 cm). If you started your seeds indoors, handle the seedlings very carefully and plant them 1 foot (0.3 m) apart in rows 3 feet (0.9 m) apart. Dig holes large enough to hold the root balls and gently pat the soil around the base of the plants. Water the garden to help set the soil.
If you want to speed the germination of your seeds, you can soak them overnight the night before planting, or freeze them to crack the shells.
If you’re transplanting seedlings, do not break their tiny taproots. If they get crushed, the seedlings will not grow.
Part 2 of 3:
Caring for Okra
Keep the okra well watered. Okra should be given at least an inch per week of water. Water every morning to thoroughly moisten the soil, except after heavy rains. Okra can withstand a bit of drought, but it grows much better when given plenty of water throughout the summer.
It’s best to water okra in the morning so that the plants have time to dry before nightfall. If the water stands in the garden bed overnight, it could cause the plants to start rotting.
When you water okra, try not to get water on the leaves. When the sun starts beating down on the okra plants, the water will act as a magnifying glass and burn the okra leaves.
Thin the seedlings. When the seeds you planted have sprouted and grown to 3 inches (7.6 cm) high, thin out the smaller seedlings and leave the strongest ones standing. Thin them so that the remaining seedlings are spaced 1 foot (0.3 m) to 2 foot (0.6 m) apart, in rows 3 feet (0.9 m) apart. If you transplanted seedlings that you started indoors, you can skip this step.
Weed and mulch the okra bed. While the okra is still young, cultivate the bed to eliminate any weeds. Then cover the area around the seedlings with a heavy layer of mulch, such as pine straw. This will prevent additional weeds from sprouting and taking over the bed.
Side dress the plants with compost. Since okra needs plenty of nutrients to grow, it’s a good idea to continue adding compost throughout the summer. You should side dress the okra with compost three times: once after thinning the seedlings, once after the first pods begin to grow, and a third time halfway through the growing season. To side dress, simply rake in a few inches of compost around the plants, so that the soil there gets enriched.
You can also side dress with more bagged fertilizer or slow release fertilizer.
Don’t side dress the plants too often; three times is enough. Adding too much compost or fertilizer can hurt the plants more than it helps.
Keep an eye out for pests. Aphids, stinkbugs, and corn earworms all like to feast on okra plants. The plants are hardy, and usually won’t fail on account of pests, but it’s a good idea to keep their populations low to get the most out of your okra crop. Inspect the stems and leaves regularly for holes, yellow leaves and other signs of pest infestation. You can pick the bugs off by hand or spray the leaves with soapy water to keep the pests away.
Part 3 of 3:
Harvesting and Using Okra
Cut and come back. About 8 weeks after planting the okra, the pods will start to grow. Once you see the first okra pods emerge and mature, you can start regularly harvesting them. Use a scissors or a hand pruner to cut the okra pods just above their caps, where their thick stems meet the branches of the plant. Once you make a cut, another okra pod will emerge from the same spot. Keep harvesting the okra throughout the summer until the growing season slows and the plants stop producing new pods.
Harvest the pods when they are 2 to 3 inches (5.1 to 7.6 cm) long.
Harvest the okra every other day, and every day in warm climates and during the peak of the season, to encourage fast regrowth. You may even need to harvest twice per day to keep up with growth at the peak of the season. If the pods get too big, they will become woody and tough.
You might want to wear gloves and long sleeves when you harvest the okra. The leaves and pods are covered with spines that can irritate the skin.
Eat the okra while it’s fresh. Okra’s taste and texture are best within a few days of harvest. You’re likely to have an abundance of okra you can use to make classic dishes like the following:
Pickle the Okra. This is a great way to preserve the okra’s flavor and texture for months to come. You can pickle okra the same way you pickle cucumbers, using a salty brine. Pickle okra right after you harvest it for best results.
Freeze extra okra. If you simply have too much to eat, or you want to be able to enjoy okra during the winter, freezing it is a good option. To freeze okra, blanch it for 3 minutes, plunge it into an ice bath to stop it from overcooking, then chop it into bite-sized pieces. Place the pieces on a tray and freeze them until firm, then transfer them to a freezer bag for long-term storage
Okra isn’t too bothered by pests. The kinds of pests that might occur include aphids, thrips, mites, and grubs.
Soil wilt diseases impact okra; do not plant okra where members of the solanaceous family have already grown (potatoes, tomatoes, etc.) or brassicas (cabbage, broccoli, etc.).
Things You’ll Need👇
Suitable garden space
Compost or 4-6-6 fertilizer
POTENTIAL QUESTIONS & ANSWERS👇
Question? The lower leaves turn yellow and die. They fall off or I trim off every day. The pod production is good but I am worried that the plant is burning. What can I do?
Onestopghana Expert Answer💡 It is normal for the lowest leaves to fall off as the plant grows. As long as the upper leaves look healthy you have nothing to worry about.
Question? What are the small beads of crystals under the all the leaves?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 It sounds like you have insect eggs under your leaves. Take a picture and show you county extension office or another gardener to find out what they are and how to treat them.
Question? How do I get okra seeds?
Onestopghana Expert Answer💡 You can buy okra seeds at your nearest nursery (or possible home improvement store) or you can take okra seeds by cutting the okra itself.
Question? My plants are producing pods without blooms. Is that out of ordinary?
Onestopghana Expert Answer💡 Okra is a self-fertilizer, but is also able to be pollinated by insects. Sometimes the flower does not open, yet inside it is self-pollinating and a day later or so the wilted petals fall down without opening and still the fruit grows.
Question? How should I prepare the soil for okra plants?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 Try using organic composts like well rotted cow manure and mixing it into your soil. You can also use the peels from vegetables, fruits and add crushed eggshells and any plant trimmings to the soil to enrich it.
Question? How do I prepare okra if I’ve never eaten it before?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 You can fry it, bake it, or make it into soup. Just know that plain boiling may make it slimy.
Question? When is the okra ready to pick?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 Anytime up to about 5 inches in length. If it gets too mature, it will be stringy and tough. If the pod cuts easily and smoothly with a knife, it will be good. You can pick it as small as you like.
Question? What can I use to treat okra for pests?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 Try using something that contains neem or azadirachtin. Keep in mind that these types of products are only moderately effective.
Question? How tall will okra grow?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 It can easily grow to eight feet in height.
Question? What are the major diseases of okra?
Onestopghana Expert Answer 💡 Major diseases depend on the place where you grow them. Viral infections mainly include the yellow vein mosaic virus and the leaf curl virus; fungal diseases include Fusarium, Cercospora, Phytium, Choanephora, Verticillium, Mildew, and Botrytis.
Cabbage is a delicious, nutritious, and versatile vegetable with dense leaves.
It can be boiled, steamed, eaten raw, or even fermented to create sauerkraut. Cabbages like cool weather but lots of sun, and as long as the conditions are right, you may be able to get a spring and fall harvest. This particular vegetable can withstand some frost, but it cannot tolerate heat, so it will grow best in fall.
Part 1 Part 1 of 3: Starting with cabbage seeds
1. Pick the right time.
Cabbages seed should be started inside in the early spring, six to eight weeks before the last frost. You can also plant them in late summer to harvest them in the fall. To determine the best time to plant the seeds, check the local frost forecast for your area. Cabbage seedlings will be grown inside for between four and six weeks, and then transplanted outside a couple weeks before the last frost.
2. Plant the seeds.
Prepare seed starters by filling them with potting soil. With your finger, make a ½-inch (1.3-cm) hole in the center of each seed starter cell. Drop two or three cabbage seeds into each hole, and cover the hole with soil. Potting soil is ideal for cabbage seeds because it’s fertile and drains well.
3. Water the seeds.
Once you plant the seeds, add enough water to the soil to make it moist. As the seeds germinate and grow, keep the soil moist, adding more water as it begins to dry out.
4 Maintain the temperature.
Cabbage seeds germinate when the temperature is between 65 and 75 F (18 and 24 C). Store them inside or in a garden shed where the temperature will be maintained in this range. Once the seeds come up, move them to a place that gets plenty of sunlight, like a south-facing window.
5. Keep the seedlings inside until leaves form.
As the cabbage seeds germinate and start to grow, sprouts will shoot up through the soil. Keep the cabbage seedlings inside until they’re three to four inches tall, and have at least four or five leaves each. The seedlings will take between four and six weeks to grow to this stage.
Part 2 Part 2 of 3: Transplanting and Growing Cabbage
1. Determine when the last frost will be.
It’s best to transplant cabbage to its outdoor location about two to three weeks prior to the last frost. Check the long-range weather forecast for your area to determine this date. When you know when the date for the last expected frost, schedule a date a couple weeks in advance of that to transplant your cabbage. For fall plantings, set the plants out 6-8 weeks before the average first frost date of the year.
2. Pick the right location.
There are a few things that cabbages need to thrive, and sunlight is one of them. When choosing an outdoor location for your cabbage, look for somewhere that gets at least six hours of full sun each day. Avoid planting cabbages in the same garden beds as cauliflower, strawberries, broccoli, and tomatoes. Cabbages will thrive in gardens close to cucumbers and beans.
3. Prepare the seedbed.
Cabbage loves fertile soil, so mix the soil in your seedbed with equal parts aged compost or manure. Water the bed so the soil is moist before transplanting the seedlings. The ideal pH for cabbage is between 6.5 and 7.5. You can test the pH of your soil with test strips, which are available at most department, garden, and hardware stores. If you need to lower the pH, add more compost or manure to make the soil more acidic. To increase the pH, add pulverized limestone to the bed.
4. Transplant the cabbage seedlings.
Plant the seedlings at the same depth they were in the pots, about a ½ inch (1.3 cm) deep. Space them 12 to 24 inches (30 to 61 cm) apart, and in rows that are about 24 inches (61 cm) apart. For the best results, pick a cloudy day to transplant the cabbage seedlings. This will help prevent shock to the fragile plants.
5. Cover the soil with mulch.
Add a 1-inch (2.5-cm) layer of mulch to the top of the soil. This will help keep the soil moist as the seedlings grow, protect the plants from pests, and help regulate the temperature of the soil. The ideal mulch for cabbage includes ground leaves, finely ground bark, or compost.
6. Keep the soil moist.
Cabbage plants will need about 1.5 inches (3.8 cm) of water each week. If you aren’t getting enough rain, water the soil enough to keep it moist as the cabbages grow. Continue watering the cabbages until the plants approach maturity. At that time, stop watering them to prevent split heads.
7. Fertilize three weeks after transplanting.
When the cabbages start to grow new leaves and develop heads, amend the soil with fertilizer. This will happen about three weeks after transplanting, and at this time, the cabbages will need nitrogen-rich fertilizer. Good fertilizers for a cabbage patch include fish emulsions, liquid fertilizers, blood meal, and cottonseed meal.
Part 3 Part 3 of 3: Harvesting Cabbages
1. Pay attention to growing time.
Cabbage growing time depends on the variety, but it can take anywhere from 80 to 180 days for a cabbage to mature after the seed is planted. After transplanting the seedlings, the cabbages will need anywhere from 60 to 105 days to mature.
2. Do a squeeze test.
When the cabbages start to mature, you can start doing squeeze tests on the heads to determine if they’re ready for harvest. The base of the head should be between 4 and 10 inches (10.2 to 25.4 cm) across, depending on the variety. To do the squeeze test, squeeze the head of the cabbage with your hand. A solid and firm head is ready for harvest, but a loose and soft head needs more time to mature.
3. Harvest the heads.
When the cabbages are ready, use a sharp knife to remove the heads from the stems. Cut off the outer leaves and add them to the compost pile if they’re healthy. When the heads have been harvested, place them in the shade or into the fridge until you’re ready to use or store them. When you harvest the cabbage heads, leave the stems in the ground to continue growing. Many cabbages will regrow new, smaller heads, and these can be harvested again in several weeks.
4. Store extra heads.
You can eat your harvested cabbages immediately, or store leftovers for later. Clean the cabbage heads under running water to remove dirt and insects. Set them on a clean towel to dry completely. You can store cabbage by: Wrapping it loosely in plastic wrap and storing it in the fridge for up to two weeks. Storing it in a cold or root cellar for up to three months. Drying or freezing the leaves. Turning it into a Sauerkrau